Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts

11/21/15

"This Morning..."








This morning, the sun is shining over Paris. Blue skies. Spring-like weather. It feels definitely strange, abnormal even. It should be dark and raining, shouldn’t it? Because our hearts are heavy and in despair. Because we are all grieving, seriously grieving.

Popeye and I had planned to spend this week-end in Paris staying at Swee’Pea’s apartment since Niruj, our friend from India (and Swee’Pea’s)  would be in Paris. I had missed him so much for several years that I was really looking forward to meeting him again.

On Friday night, Popeye and I decided not to go out for dinner and stay home instead. We were expecting a message from Swee’Pea who was on his way to Montreal. We were peacefully reading on the couch.

My phone rang around 10:30 p.m. SP from Boston airport. Which was very strange and could only spell trouble. We mainly communicate through WhatsApp messages and Skype if we need to talk.

“Mom,” he said. “I am at the airport waiting for my plane. I am watching CNN right now. Horrible things are happening in Paris right in the Oberkampf area.”

We don’t watch tv and the district where we were staying is quite far away from the 10th and the 11th districts where hell was breaking loose, unknown to us. We were in a very quiet area. We only started hearing the sirens of the ambulances that were bringing a lot of casualties from the Bataclan to the nearby hospital around 1 a.m. And by then we knew a lot about what had happened even though we did not fully grasp the extent of the devastation we would awaken to.

While I was talking with my son who was really worried about his friends in Paris (some of them live right where the attacks were happening), I started getting messages from Niruj. “saw the news? attacks in Paris… am seeing the news in a bar .. sounds really grave”

We turned the radio on. The newsmen were so confused that it was very hard to understand what was going on. There were talks about shootings and explosions and the President being ‘exfiltrated’ from the Stade de France where he was attending a football game. They then started having those “man on the street” interviews. “Well, no, I did not see anything. I heard firecrackers and my neighbour said…” You know, those highly emotional and mainly false accounts they are keen to use to stay on the air just in case…

So we turned the radio off and turned our computers on, browsing hopefully reliable newspapers websites.

What we were reading was terrible. And the accounts were still quite incomplete of course. But it sounded so horrible. Last January, when terror hit Paris twice, almost all of us in France became “Charlie” and we did believe this would never happen again. Not in Paris.

Of course it had happened again and again in Irak and Lebanon and Afghanistan and Syria of course but it all seemed so far away and in such unstable places that French people kept feeling safe in Paris because it is so easy to live blindfolded. 


But we did keep busy arguing about refugees who were fleeing from the very dark forces that would attack and try to destroy our very complacent quietude a few days/weeks/months later. Because it was so much easier for so many people in Europe to turn against innocent victims than to think that one day, monsters were amongst us, as European as we are, born in Europe and raised and schooled in Europe. European citizens.

Early last night, someone tweeted that it only took a few hours of mayhem in Paris to get us to start understanding why thousands of refugees were willing to jump aboard an inflatable dinghy and risk their lives to live safely.

 
I am not even sure that this is going to happen. A story was already going around as early as Saturday morning. A kamikaze had supposedly lost his passport which had supposedly been issued to one of the refugees in Greece. This may be true or untrue. They tend to think right now that the passport was stolen. Anyway, who is going to remember what Gandhi said about the dirty drop in the ocean?

“You must not loose faith in humanity. Humanity is an ocean; if a few drops of the ocean are dirty, the ocean does not become dirty.”

But in France, voices are already being heard asking for refugees to be sent back to Syria or elsewhere. Right at the moment when we should feel a lot of empathy because suddenly we feel pain and hurt and it is ghastly. You know, feeling insecure and in peril.

Yesterday, Paris was totally empty. Vacant. Everything was closed. The news were still quite imprecise. State of emergency had been solemly declared. Fear and ache were so tangible and yet it was still so unreal. You hear that Paris is under heavy fire and that there are a few casualties and during the night (nobody slept much last night), you learn that there are at least 129 dead plus more than 300 wounded persons, 99 of them between life and death, all of them because they had been shot.

I know that numbers do not mean much when read out of context. I read a post today written by a famous American travel agent who was trying to convince his countrymen that it would be safe to travel to Europe anyway since in the States, some 30.000 people die every year (just about 100 persons by day) because of gun violence. (I am brief there…)

The very high death toll on French roads cannot be compared to what happened on Friday night. My brother died in a car accident with a very, very high alcohol  level in the blood. People whose family members and friends died last night while they were peacefully dining out or listening to a concert won’t most certainly mourn them the way I grieved.

Because whenever I travel by car, I hope that I won’t meet with some drunk driver who felt perfectly fine to take the wheel like my brother did. Even though he was the only casualty.

We are talking about accidental deaths which should be treated like manslaughter. In the States, there are a lot of first-degree and second-degree murders because of guns.

On Friday night in Paris, it was terrorism at work. Ugly and deadly terrorism. People shot at random, not even because of religious bigotry (Muslims killing non-believers. Because a few faithful Muslims were also killed at random that night). People shot at random because this kind of shooting is aimed at creating terror, hence the terms used to define the killers: they were first and foremost terrorists.

I still remember Paris in 1982 and 1983 and 1986 and 1995. Sometimes up to 6 terrorist bombings in one month. This was truly terrifying. We all kept on living rather normally because first there was no other choice for Parisians and second there was only one way to fight terrorism: we refused consciously and maybe sometimes unconsciously to show that we were afraid. At least we tried to. We were probably showing off mostly but it was very effective.

The hardest thing was hearing on the radio that a bomb had exploded somewhere you knew that one of your friends might have been during the day. There were no social networks then. We did not have cell phones either. I remember calling my friends: “Oh, great. You’re home. You allright? Your family?” And then life started anew again until the next bombing.

Last night Facebook was overflowing with messages. Lots were filled with pain and sorrow.

We have been warned that there may be replicas. Brussels too is under siege now since a few terrorists lived there before going on the rampage in Paris. The Belgian police has made quite a few arrests today and we know that there are nests of potentially dangerous fundamentalists in Brussels. This is where we’ll be heading tomorrow morning. Then we’ll be back to Paris because Popeye has meetings there and I need to go to the hospital. And then back to Brussels by train and back to Paris again, etc. Life must go on.

We have to keep living normally, at least the Parisians who came out of this terror rather unharmed. I mean, those who haven’t lost friends or family members. Those who haven’t been hurt. Those who haven’t lived through those horrible moments when their life was plunged into chaos and terror just because they happened to be at the wrong place at the wrong time (except that it was totally the right place and the right time until the terrorists arrived).


We have to keep on living normally on their behalf. Yesterday, we went to the restaurant with our friend as planned. We were "happy" because it was full of people. Parisians were indeed showing they were not afraid.

Well, maybe a little bit though. Cafés were totally empty outside but chairs and tables had been put up there as usual.   

Anyway, don’t we keep flying all over the world when terrorists keep blowing planes up?

All my life I’ve been impressed by the Londoners’ tremendous courage during the “Blitz” (the Battle of Britain). The way they kept on working and living and loving while their homes were bombed at random and their neighbours, friends and loved ones were buried beneath the ruins.

Were Churchill still alive, he’d say again: “Attitude is a little thing that makes a big difference.”



11/15/15

This Morning...







This morning, the sun is shining over Paris. Blue skies. Spring-like weather. It feels definitely strange, abnormal even. It should be dark and raining, shouldn’t it? Because our hearts are heavy and in despair. Because we are all grieving, seriously grieving.

Popeye and I had planned to spend this week-end in Paris staying at Swee’Pea’s apartment since Niruj, our friend from India (and Swee’Pea’s)  would be in Paris. I had missed him so much for several years that I was really looking forward to meeting him again.

On Friday night, Popeye and I decided not to go out for dinner and stay home instead. We were expecting a message from Swee’Pea who was on his way to Montreal. We were peacefully reading on the couch.

My phone rang around 10:30 p.m. SP from Boston airport. Which was very strange and could only spell trouble. We mainly communicate through WhatsApp messages and Skype if we need to talk.

“Mom,” he said. “I am at the airport waiting for my plane. I am watching CNN right now. Horrible things are happening in Paris right in the Oberkampf area.”

We don’t watch tv and the district where we were staying is quite far away from the 10th and the 11th districts where hell was breaking loose, unknown to us. We were in a very quiet area. We only started hearing the sirens of the ambulances that were bringing a lot of casualties from the Bataclan to the nearby hospital around 1 a.m. And by then we knew a lot about what had happened even though we did not fully grasp the extent of the devastation we would awaken to.

While I was talking with my son who was really worried about his friends in Paris (some of them live right where the attacks were happening), I started getting messages from Niruj. “saw the news? attacks in Paris… am seeing the news in a bar .. sounds really grave”

We turned the radio on. The newsmen were so confused that it was very hard to understand what was going on. There were talks about shootings and explosions and the President being ‘exfiltrated’ from the Stade de France where he was attending a football game. They then started having those “man on the street” interviews. “Well, no, I did not see anything. I heard firecrackers and my neighbour said…” You know, those highly emotional and mainly false accounts they are keen to use to stay on the air just in case…

So we turned the radio off and turned our computers on, browsing hopefully reliable newspapers websites.

What we were reading was terrible. And the accounts were still quite incomplete of course. But it sounded so horrible. Last January, when terror hit Paris twice, almost all of us in France became “Charlie” and we did believe this would never happen again. Not in Paris.

Of course it had happened again and again in Irak and Lebanon and Afghanistan and Syria of course but it all seemed so far away and in such unstable places that French people kept feeling safe in Paris because it is so easy to live blindfolded. 


But we did keep busy arguing about refugees who were fleeing from the very dark forces that would attack and try to destroy our very complacent quietude a few days/weeks/months later. Because it was so much easier for so many people in Europe to turn against innocent victims than to think that one day, monsters were amongst us, as European as we are, born in Europe and raised and schooled in Europe. European citizens.

Early last night, someone tweeted that it only took a few hours of mayhem in Paris to get us to start understanding why thousands of refugees were willing to jump aboard an inflatable dinghy and risk their lives to live safely.
I am not even sure that this is going to happen. A story was already going around as early as Saturday morning. A kamikaze had supposedly lost his passport which had supposedly been issued to one of the refugees in Greece. This may be true or untrue. They tend to think right now that the passport was stolen. Anyway, who is going to remember what Gandhi said about the dirty drop in the ocean?

“You must not loose faith in humanity. Humanity is an ocean; if a few drops of the ocean are dirty, the ocean does not become dirty.”

But in France, voices are already being heard asking for refugees to be sent back to Syria or elsewhere. Right at the moment when we should feel a lot of empathy because suddenly we feel pain and hurt and it is ghastly. You know, feeling insecure and in peril.

Yesterday, Paris was totally empty. Vacant. Everything was closed. The news were still quite imprecise. State of emergency had been solemly declared. Fear and ache were so tangible and yet it was still so unreal. You hear that Paris is under heavy fire and that there are a few casualties and during the night (nobody slept much last night), you learn that there are at least 129 dead plus more than 300 wounded persons, 99 of them between life and death, all of them because they had been shot.

I know that numbers do not mean much when read out of context. I read a post today written by a famous American travel agent who was trying to convince his countrymen that it would be safe to travel to Europe anyway since in the States, some 30.000 people die every year (just about 100 persons by day) because of gun violence. (I am brief there…)

The very high death toll on French roads cannot be compared to what happened on Friday night. My brother died in a car accident with a very, very high alcohol  level in the blood. People whose family members and friends died last night while they were peacefully dining out or listening to a concert won’t most certainly mourn them the way I grieved.

Because whenever I travel by car, I hope that I won’t meet with some drunk driver who felt perfectly fine to take the wheel like my brother did. Even though he was the only casualty.

We are talking about accidental deaths which should be treated like manslaughter. In the States, there are a lot of first-degree and second-degree murders because of guns.

On Friday night in Paris, it was terrorism at work. Ugly and deadly terrorism. People shot at random, not even because of religious bigotry (Muslims killing non-believers. Because a few faithful Muslims were also killed at random that night). People shot at random because this kind of shooting is aimed at creating terror, hence the terms used to define the killers: they were first and foremost terrorists.

I still remember Paris in 1982 and 1983 and 1986 and 1995. Sometimes up to 6 terrorist bombings in one month. This was truly terrifying. We all kept on living rather normally because first there was no other choice for Parisians and second there was only one way to fight terrorism: we refused consciously and maybe sometimes unconsciously to show that we were afraid. At least we tried to. We were probably showing off mostly but it was very effective.

The hardest thing was hearing on the radio that a bomb had exploded somewhere you knew that one of your friends might have been during the day. There were no social networks then. We did not have cell phones either. I remember calling my friends: “Oh, great. You’re home. You allright? Your family?” And then life started anew again until the next bombing.

Last night Facebook was overflowing with messages. Lots were filled with pain and sorrow.

We have been warned that there may be replicas. Brussels too is under siege now since a few terrorists lived there before going on the rampage in Paris. The Belgian police has made quite a few arrests today and we know that there are nests of potentially dangerous fundamentalists in Brussels. This is where we’ll be heading tomorrow morning. Then we’ll be back to Paris because Popeye has meetings there and I need to go to the hospital. And then back to Brussels by train and back to Paris again, etc. Life must go on.

We have to keep living normally, at least the Parisians who came out of this terror rather unharmed. I mean, those who haven’t lost friends or family members. Those who haven’t been hurt. Those who haven’t lived through those horrible moments when their life was plunged into chaos and terror just because they happened to be at the wrong place at the wrong time (except that it was totally the right place and the right time until the terrorists arrived).


We have to keep on living normally on their behalf. Yesterday, we went to the restaurant with our friend as planned. We were "happy" because it was full of people. Parisians were indeed showing they were not afraid.

Well, maybe a little bit though. Cafés were totally empty outside but chairs and tables had been put up there as usual.   

Anyway, don’t we keep flying all over the world when terrorists keep blowing planes up?

All my life I’ve been impressed by the Londoners’ tremendous courage during the “Blitz” (the Battle of Britain). The way they kept on working and living and loving while their homes were bombed at random and their neighbours, friends and loved ones were buried beneath the ruins.

Were Churchill still alive, he’d say again: “Attitude is a little thing that makes a big difference.”





 


*Good Luck, and Good Night*

10/24/12

My Travel Book - Paris - One Sunny Autumnal Day At Les Tuileries






Fall is my favorite season because I am a photographer and I love its colors, so bright and vivid even when it rains.

Belgium and Northern France have been enjoying some very exceptional weather lately. Sunny and very warm. Our own Indian summer! Very surprising but so wonderful.

Last week-end, we drove through the forest that surrounds Brussels. It was gorgeous.

Today, I was in Paris. What can you do when it is so sunny and hot in Paris? You take a walk through one of the many parks there.

I decided to go to the Tuileries Garden (Jardin des Tuileries).

The Tuileries Garden is a beautiful park. It used to be the grounds of a royal palace which was destroyed in 1871 during one of the many revolutions France has been through during her tumultuous past. The palace was right by the Louvre.





Parisians love to laze around the Tuileries whenever the sun shines. They sit wherever they feel like it on chairs so easy to move around from one spot to another. 
Children float small sailboats on the pools. This has been going on for ages. It was one of my favorite places in Paris when I was a child. 
And tourists crowd through the Jardin on their way from the Louvre to Place de la Concorde and Champs-Elysées.

Last week was FIAC time in Paris. FIAC being a grand Contemporary Art Fair. This year, they chose to exhibit works of art (sculptures) in a few parks in Paris.

They have started to remove them and I wanted to get a chance to see a few of them in situ. Contemporary art in parks just like the Middelheim in Antwerpen. (One of these days, I must write about my many trips to the Flemish Contemporary Art permanent exhibit in Antwerpen.) I love modern art.


When I got there, the Jardin was less crowded than I had thought it would be. People were mostly lounging around the pools. And there were less works of art than I expected but FIAC closed on Sunday. Today was Tuesday after all.


There they were, right in the middle of the big pool close to the Place de la Concorde. Susumu Shingu’s ‘Sinfonietta of Light’, moving in the wind ever so gracefully.


 Then there was something very strange called ‘The Arrow Slit’ by Nicolas Milhé... which actually people enjoyed a lot as a mirror.



The third one was very impressive, in a pool. A glimmering shell called ‘The Origin of the World’ (Cassis Madagascariensis) by Marc Quinn.




This one was very bright and crowded with children who loved to run around and inside out. It was so much fun to watch them playing around those big colorful splashes. 'Chromosaturation' by Carlos Cruz-Diez.

There were quite a few works around but the one I loved very much was right in a very small pond. One very simple sculpture called ‘Bateau’ (Boat) by Dominique Guesquière. It was so simple and so forceful that I spent a long time looking at it. The gulls loved it too.




 And then what? Quite a few other works actually. Some of them I liked. Others I did not.

After a while I focused my attention on what makes the Jardin so attractive - people. I enjoy watching people. And there were so many people around.

The Loner and the prattlers.
The sun lovers.
The cool one.

The reader who looked for peace and quiet and found them.
The friends.
And the guy who couldn’t stand to be cooped up in his office and who went out to work in Les Tuileries.

I really wonder what the weather will be like tomorrow in Paris or in Brussels but ever since Saturday, it is all about “seizing the day”... Sun shining. Beauty all around.

Let’s face it, it is bound to rain one of these days! So enjoy...



And yes, there are quite a few happy tourists in Paris!






*Good Luck, and Good Night*

10/12/12

Have a smoke!






In July 2011, non-smokers were expected to rejoice in Belgium when smoking was definitely banned from public places. Yes, that is right. July 2011. Probably beating the Western world record of disrespect for public health.

To be fair, smoking quit being allowed in schools in September 2008.

If you have been reading my blog long enough, you probably think I am quite biased against Belgium. This is totally untrue. It is not really a matter of sectarianism. I simply do not understand Belgium even though I have been living there for the past fourteen years.

As far as smoking is concerned, France reacted much earlier. Later than the US probably but as early as 1976 and 1991. The real ban came only in 2006 though.

Tobacco is heavily taxed in France. Last year, the government ‘earned’ 18 billion dollars from tobacco taxes, most of this money being pumped back into our ailing Social Security. The easy way to take care of people who get very sick because of tobacco.

Smoking is a very expensive pastime. A pack of cigarettes now costs  more or less 8 dollars and its price should go up pretty soon.

It sounds good for non-smokers, doesn’t it?

Well, let me tell you. I love to live in Brittany because people on the beach do not smoke... Or if they do, there is a lot of room to avoid them. But people usually don’t smoke while they are taking walks on the beach.

But try to take a long walk in Paris and I am sure that by the end of the day, your eyes will be watering and your throat will feel scratchy. Why? The ambient pollution? Yes but only partly.

People no longer smoke inside their office. It is totally forbidden.

Therefore, they break off every now and then and they go outside to smoke.

They usually stand on sidewalks when the weather is fine. When it’s raining, they still go outside to light their cigarette. Is there any other choice? 





They huddle in the entrance of their building. And then you do wonder what’s so enjoyable about smoking that people are ready to stand outside in the rain and in the cold while they are slowly inhaling poison. (Poisoning you too with the cloud of smoke they produce.)
 

Take a walk on the sidewalk and you become an innocent passive smoker because people smoke while they are walking by or because you walk by chain smokers. Your choice? Not really.



I used to love to sit at the terrace of cafés. It was so romantic in Paris. And it was fun in Brussels. Watching people walk by. Enjoying a sunny spot. Lazying around.

Nowadays, terraces are besieged by smokers who do smoke. Period. 

You look at the smokers and you feel like life is really unfair. They are enjoying the sidewalk and the sights and the passers-by and you can’t. Not anymore.




It is even worse when you get close to a school entrance hall. Then you do end up walking through a thick cloud of smoke. And you get lucky if you don’t get a cigarette burn on your way. (Kids under 16 are forbidden to buy cigarettes. What's going on there?)

And then the smokers will drop their butt without even putting it out. In Paris or Brussels, the butt goes out on its own but imagine what may happen along a country road when it ends up in a dry ditch.

The car drivers are even worse because they flick theirs through their slightly opened window. From time to time, the stub ends up dangerously close to you or in a baby carriage. (No kidding.)

I know I probably sound intolerant but if I feel like smoking, I want to do it on my own after weighing up the pros and cons and not because someone forces it upon me at every bend of my path.

I am pretty sure I won’t find many pros by the way. Who can in this day and age? Who can ignore the fact that “Smoking can seriously damage your health?” In France, they even took one step forward: “Smoking will kill you.”  Oh really?

What about us, harmless passers-by?

A while ago, I discovered this neon sign. The name of the café is “The Smoking Dog”... "Au chien qui fume"...


I had to stifle a nervous laughter though. In Paris, the dogs are pipe-smokers. In Brussels, smokers put their cigarette out in dog poop.




*Good Luck, and Good Night*

10/2/12

My Travel Book - Paris - 'La Grande Mosquée' (The Mosque)




©Wikipedia.fr

Ever since I got sick in July and was told that I would not be able to travel/fly around for quite a long time, I started grumbling. All of a sudden, I wanted to go all over the world... All over the world and nowhere else!

Last week-end, Swee’Pea was in Paris, back from South Africa. South Africa! You’ve got to be kidding! And I started to complain about my life, stuck... stuck... stuck... nowhere.

“Mom, you’ve got to be kidding!” said a nonplussed Swee’Pea. “I know that right now you are feeling kind of trapped but please look around.”

I did look around - in my mind, that is because we were having this talk in his apartment.

And he was right. What should I complain about? All right, I live in Brussels which is a city I do not like but there are so many beautiful places in Belgium.

I get to spend quite a few days in Paris every now and then. Paris where people flock from all over the world. Paris I love so much.

And then there is Brittany, my end of the world. Well, Cap Fréhel is not Cape Point but it is a wonderful place to sail around.

Last Sunday, the weather was lovely. Sunny and warm.

We decided to go take a walk... the three of us since it seldom happens. The three of us in Paris, I mean. So where to? Since it was so warm and sunny, the Tuileries or the Luxembourg would be packed. I suggested the Père Lachaise but Popeye did not like the idea of spending some time in a graveyard...

Swee’Pea suggested a very quiet place in the Jardin du Luxembourg he used to go to when he was a student. So off we went...

By the time we got to the Luxembourg, we had changed our mind and we decided to go to a place we’d never been before. Well, Swee’Pea had been there all right many times but it was a brand new experience for Popeye and I.

Imagine. A brand new place in Paris when I thought I knew Paris by heart and there was nothing left there to discover...

The Paris Mosque.


So near the Jardin des Plantes. How could I have missed it?

Its minaret (manārah) stands out so clearly. It is 33 meters high. Very impressive. Let’s not forget that we are in Paris where Catholic steeples and church towers are far more traditional than a minaret. But there it is nevertheless.








We started our visit with a stop in the delightful oriental tearoom. 



Very sweet Moroccan tea with mint. I almost felt I was back to Marrakesh. Except that there were house sparrows all over the place. 


And so many people drinking tea and eating honey pastries. Speaking French! And so Parisian after all.

We wanted some peace and quiet. We left. Time to visit the Mosque. 





And there we were - in Andalucia... the place Popeye and I we love to distraction. A lot more sober. (It was built in the 1920s in the mudejar style.) Smaller than most places we had been to. But the real thing.

So peaceful.

Of course quite a few rooms are forbidden to non-Muslims, especially the   prayer room but you can have a look without entering of course. And it is very beautiful. A few men were there, meditating.

The few visitors were very quiet and respectful.

We walked through the garden... Al-Andalucia all over again.




And then around and around again. Zellige in Paris... 






La Grande Mosquée de Paris is on the French historical register. The place is very moving but its history is exceptional. The French have always had a very difficult relationship with their colonies, especially with the Muslim North African ones. This Mosque was built in 1922/26 to pay homage to the 70.000 Muslims who died during the Great War, fighting for France. It was the first mosque ever built in metropolitan France.

What an amazing and peaceful experience. Why should I complain about not being able to travel all over the world when there are still so many places to be discovered or revisited so close to me?



I guess I'll have to open my Travel Book for you once in a while... It feels so good to travel again!








*Good Luck, and Good Night*

9/19/12

My Travel Book - Paris - Sometimes, I do get really upset - The 'Jardin des Plantes'





Today was a perfect day in Paris. Sunny even if a bit nippy. Yes, a lovely day.

I need to take a walk every day now. A long one. When I am in Paris, I always end up in the same places - The Tuileries or the Luxembourg. Today had to be different.

I thought about several places I like a lot in Paris. I contemplated taking a walk along the Seine or going to Bagatelle... Then I remembered that I had been planning for the longest time to go to the ‘Jardin des Plantes’. It is a very famous outdoor botanical garden complete with beautiful glasshouses. It also boasts quite a few museums too (paleontology, evolution, geology...)

It had to be the Jardin des Plantes then. I had been there a few times but a very, very long time ago.

The visit of the botanical garden is free... and it is huge. A lot of space for a nice walk.

I got there and started walking and then I noticed a sign - “Zoo”. I did not know they had a zoo there. I am quite biased against zoos actually. But the sign said that it was the oldest zoo in Europe, that it used to be the “royal” zoo and that it only housed endangered species.

I bought a ticket out of sheer curiosity - Now I’d call it unhealthy curiosity!

And I started to walk around the - well, I don’t even know what to call them - the... the... pens... enclosures... paddocks...? 






The stench of the prisoners was terrible. I was walking through a prison. I really was.

The “cells” were awfully small. Sandy ground. A few tree trunks here and there inside the enclosures. The real trees were growing outside, along very unfriendly iron gates that were supposed to keep people away from the animals or maybe it was the opposite... I’ll never know.

I kept on walking, feeling more and more upset. There was the big-cat house where a couple of panthers were looking down at visitors from concrete rocks. Safe behind gates and strong glass walls. Safe from the visitors who kept getting excited and being very loud... And so lonely and trapped while trees were growing out of their cells.





They were renovating part of the big-cat enclosures. I was happy to see men behind the gates except that they could get out very easily... you see, they were workers and not wild animals.



I was feeling nauseated. I really was. And not because of the stench.

This place is so antiquated, so incredibly appalling as far as wildlife is concerned that one question was always in my mind. At a time when we care a lot more about wild animals and the protection of animal species, at a time when we create wildlife sanctuaries all over the place, at a time when we get upset and worried about the extinction of many endangered species, why do we preserve places like this one?

I really don’t know. Children did not even look excited nor happy to be there. Probably because the animals are keeping away as much as they can from the noise, the hustle and bustle.

And then the last straw.



There it was - a huge orangutan whose face is printed on the zoo tickets. It was right behind the glass wall, asleep on a of heap of straw. People were flocking round, taking pictures, getting so excited probably because it was the only really visible animal in the zoo.


I saw a man who was trying to take a picture of his own face close to the orangutan’s face with his phone. He even tried to make a monkey face. But obviously the picture did not turn out well. He went away, swearing a lot. How nice.

And then this beautiful great ape opened his eyes for a fleeting moment right when I was facing it. Will you forgive me if I get maudlin about the look in his eyes? Will it be sheer anthropomorphism if I say that there was a lot of boredom and even pain in its eyes?

Well, anyway. He closed them again and I left.

I was very, very upset. I left the zoo in a hurry.

I still had to take a walk, remember. So I walked around the garden. Very beautiful indeed and I have to go back there because I didn’t have enough time to visit what they call the Alpine garden nor the huge conservatory nor the Paleontology department. 



I noticed one thing though. In the gardens, there is grass for people to sit down and real trees for children to climb. And there are iron gates everywhere... I don’t know why... Maybe the zoo was much bigger a long time ago. They got rid of the animals and kept the gates.




I did have enough time to visit the Gallery of Evolution. 


I truly was flabbergasted. In the same area, such a wonderful wildlife exhibit and such a horrendous zoo.

Why do people take their children to the zoo? The Gallery was empty. A few children with their parents and that’s all.












This place is amazing. The animals (life-size spitting images) are very close to the visitors. The exhibits are beautiful with screens showing the animals in the wild.

So I spent a lot of time there. The few children around sounded and looked delighted. They were asking tons of questions. Which meant that they were happy.

I was happy. I’ll probably come back pretty soon. The Gallery is an unbelievable place. It really is.








*Good Luck, and Good Night*